Archive by Author

Taking part in the Singapore Garden Festival 2010…

12 Jul

This year, the biennial Singapore Garden Festival took place at Suntec Convention Center from 15 to 22 July 2010. My role as a participant is different from two earlier runs  - I am a staff of the National Parks Board (NParks) and was given the job to implement a display on level 4 of the Convention Center.

Called ‘My Home Garden’, the display put up by my team at NParks’ Hort Excellence division consists of a series of living and working spaces which we thought people would like to have plants in. I hope to inspire visitors to take up gardening and to embrace and care for every bit of greenery wherever they are. Visitors to ‘My Home Garden’ can look forward to a range of simple ‘do-it-yourself’ (DIY) ideas which they can bring home with them. They can also get some tips on how they can display their plants at home, as well as, look at new innovative gardening products and plant introductions.

Below are some pictures I took at  Suntec Convention Center while our contractor was working hard to put together the facade of ‘My Home Garden’ display.

The section on the extreme left is the home office. Stretching far beyond it is the rest of the display facade. My colleague who is a landscape architect wanted to portray a fun and qwerty feel to this part of display - one can see a slanted door way which leads to the living room. There is a cool-looking spoon planter above the working table.

After one passed through the slanted doorway, he or she will arrive in the living room. The fun and qwerty decor concept flows into this section as well. The spoon planter is extended into a wave planter. The bright orange colour is a bold attempt to break from the norm in order to excite the young. A design that is designed by the young for the young.

Like what we have in most of our homes, the balcony area is where we arrive after the living room. The trellis for this balcony was yet to be built when this picture was taken.

The patio comes after the balcony. The patio area shown above was just an empty space then. What will go onto it?

The last portion of ‘My Home Garden’ display is the roof garden. We realised most of the displays around us concentrated on designs that revolve around outdoor gardens – those of Community in Bloom and Singapore Gardening Society. As roof gardens are increasingly becoming popular, we decided to put up a showcase to show what can be done in such a situation.

FarmVille Singapore (Gardening on RazorTV)

28 Apr

A group of Green Culture Singapore forum members, namely, Casey, Ting Ting and myself were featured on RazorTV. RazorTV is an online television service by Straits Times that broadcasts live from Singapore Press Holding’s (SPH) Multimedia Centre. This series of video clips focussed on the growing of edibles and is part of the publicity effort for the Singapore Garden Festival 2010. One of my team members from Hort Outreach, Jin Hong, was also in the video where she showed how one can prepare some dishes using seed sprouts.

Grow a real mini-farm! (FarmVille Singapore Pt 1)

If you’re hooked on Facebook’s FarmVille, why not bring turn that fantasy into a reality by planting your own vegetables and crops?

http://www.razor.tv/site/servlet/segment/main/94/46766.html

Tasty edible leaves (FarmVille Singapore Pt 2)

Eng Ting Ting has no need for a supermarket or market. Many of the ingredients she needs for her cooking grow right in her own backyard!

http://www.razor.tv/site/servlet/segment/main/94/46768.html

Mini kitchen farm (FarmVille Singapore Pt 3)

If you think growing vegies from home might be too ambitious, why not start off with fuss-free organic seed sprouts for salads.

http://www.razor.tv/site/servlet/segment/main/94/46770.html

Grow your own salad! (FarmVille Singapore Pt 4)

Learn how to create your own salads with easy-to-grow edible seed sprouts!

http://www.razor.tv/site/servlet/segment/main/94/46774.html

HDB mint garden (FarmVille Singapore Pt 5)

Casey Toh is hooked on growing her own edible plants, which she uses for herbal remedies and cooking. Find out why she especially loves growing varieties of mint leaves.

http://www.razor.tv/site/servlet/segment/main/94/46772.html

My Green Space (Issue 5, Vol 2/2010)

24 Apr

Issue 5 of National Parks Board’s e-newsletter has been published. One of my team members at work, Pearl Ho and I contributed three articles to the newsletter’s gardening section.

Hoyas: Say A-hoy To Low-Maintenance!

The first article is one written by myself on hoyas. A handful of hoyas are common houseplants available for sale in local nurseries. Either available as a vine or shrub, hoyas produce very pretty flowers which are also sometimes fragrant. A small number of species are admired for their leaves.  Click on the following link to read on!

http://www.nparks.gov.sg/mygreenspace/hoyas-say-a-hoy-to-low-maintenance/

Container Gardening: A Sense Of Proportion

The second article is on container gardening by Pearl Ho. Container gardening is the growing and arrangement of a selection of plants inside a suitable receptacle and in an aesthetically-pleasing manner. That sounds easy but how many of us know how to put this entire set-up together properly? One of the most important pointers is the proportion of the plants and the container. Read this article to find out more!

http://www.nparks.gov.sg/mygreenspace/container-gardening-proportion/

Let There Be Light!

The article is written by myself too and it is on the topic of sunlight that is required by green plants for healthy growth. It is often taken for granted, if not, misunderstood. Many of us place our plants in an environment with the wrong light intensity or duration and that often results in poor growth and brings about a series of cultivation problems. In this article, I attempt to inform the reader the importance of intensity and duration of sunlight and how one can determine these two factors without resorting to buying expensive equipment.

http://www.nparks.gov.sg/mygreenspace/let-there-be-light/

Sowing Seeds Of Friendship At Lakeside Grove

The last article was contributed by my colleague from the Community in Bloom Branch. Maxel shared the community gardening experience at Lakeside Grove, a private housing estate in western Singapore. This particular gardening group has an interesting gardenscape consisting of a miniature Chinese-themed garden, owing the close proximity of their housing estate to the nearby Chinese Garden.

http://www.nparks.gov.sg/mygreenspace/sowing-seeds-of-friendship-at-lakeside-grove/

Nice Arrowhead to Grow

21 Apr

Most Chinese would be familiar with the edible arrowhead that comes around during the Chinese New Year period early in the calendar year. Some families buy the corms of that particular arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia) which are then sliced and fried to make arrowhead chips. Some of us grow them in a shallow tub of pebbles and watch them send up upright shoots that end with arrowhead-shaped leaves.

There are a number of ornamental arrowhead species which are grown by aquatic gardeners. There is one that caught my attention but this species is not commonly available in Singapore. It’s supply is sporadic at best. Botanically known as Sagittaria montevidensis, this plant has common names that range from Spongy Arrowhead, Hooded Arrowhead, Long-lobed Arrowhead, Mississippi Arrowhead, Giant Arrowhead and Aztec Arrowhead.

Note that this plant has been reported to be a weed. Sagittaria montevidensis began invading rice fields in southern Brazil in the 1980s. It was discovered at that time, that a herbicide-resistant biotype had developed within the populations found in agricultural areas.

Sometimes stated as a native of the United States or Brazil, Sagittaria montevidensis is one arrowhead species with large showy flowers. Its flowers are borne in whorls or pairs at nodes. Like other Sagittaria species, the flowers each has three petals, each of which is white with a yellow base, and three green sepals. What’s quite different is that there is a large dark red spot at the bottom of each petal.

In my research about this plant, I found out that Sagittaria are monoecious plants. The pistillate (female) flowers are borne low on the inflorescence while staminate (male) flowers produced higher up. The fruit is said to look like a flattened winged achene with a single seed. Female flowers are said to produce numerous seeds which have a high germination rate.

It grows as a marginal aquatic plant, thriving in boggy areas with shallow water. The large, sagitatte leaves of Sagittaria montevidensis are borne on upright spongy petioles (they bruise easily, so handle them with care!) which may reach a length of more than 0.75 m, depending on the growing conditions. Unfortunately, its attractive inflorescences are typically borne lower than the leaves and take on a decumbent growth habit (lying on the sides).

Sagittaria montevidensis is best planted in muck inside a large water-tight container with about 15 cm of water depth. Place this plant in direct sun or semi-shade outdoors. I would prefer the latter situation as the tropical sun can be far too intense.

Boon Kiat’s Talk on Cacti & Succulents at HortPark

18 Apr

Boon Kiat, one of my most supportive Green Culture Singapore forum member delivered yet another talk on a group of plants that he has much experience growing on 17 April 2010 at HortPark’s Fruit Room. Entitled ‘A Beginner’s Guide to Growing Cacti & Succulents’, the talk covered the five elements of cultivating cacti and succulents, namely sunlight, soil, water, pest management and fertilisation.

Boon Kiat also introduced to his audience to 10 easy to grow cacti and succulent species. Not all cacti and succulents can be grown in tropical Singapore and this can take years to discover and realise. So going to Boon Kiat’s talk is a really great short-cut to skip all the problematic species. He also shared with all the reasons why some species from this group of plants can be that difficult grow here.

Last but not least, Boon Kiat brought along a Rebutia that has been grafted onto a Pereskiopsis rootstock. As revealed by Boon Kiat, this grafting method was a tip that was shared with him via a fellow Green Culture Singapore forum member. Some challenging cacti species, such as Rebutia that normally do not do well here can be grafted onto Pereskiopsis rootstock and the resultant plants have been observed to show more vigour and perform better in the lowland tropics.

Root Awakening (17 Apr 2010)

17 Apr

Below are the answers to two gardening questions that were published in the Root Awakening column on Straits Times Life! on 17 April 2010.

The first question was about the browning of leaves and subsequent decline that were observed in palms growing indoors. Note that palms are best grown in a sheltered, semi-shaded location at home. Depending on the species, most ‘indoor palms’ are best situated in a location such as the balcony or corridor where the leaves can receive at least 6 hours of filtered sunshine daily.

If one is growing it deep indoors, attempt to rotate the palm plant with another plant in a brighter location. A plant grown deep indoors will not receive sufficient sunshine and will decline over time. Avoid disturbing the plant’s root ball too much when you attempt to move it to another pot. Mishandling can bring about excessive damage to the roots can cause a plant to experience transplant shock. A newly transplanted plant should be moved to a shady place protected from excessive winds for at least a week to help recovery.

The next question was about the growing of the cat’s whiskers plant and how to get it to bloom. Note that the cat’s whiskers plant is a sun-loving plant. It grows best if it is grown in a sunny area with at least 6 hours of direct sunshine. Check the duration of sunshine that one’s plant is receiving. Prune plant back abit after flowering as this has been noticed to promote the production of new flowers. Next, do feed plants with a fertiliser for flowering plants. Avoid feeding plants with fertiliser rich in only nitrogen as that will promote the production of leaves over flowers.

The Sour Cucumber Tree

14 Apr

The bilimbi or cucumber tree is not one fruit tree that you want to grow if you are into sweet dessert fruits. Its fruits are extremely acidic and tard and are used in South East Asian cuisine to provide that kick of sourness. The fruit of bilimbi is used for pickles, curries, chutney and preserves in syrup. Interestingly, its fruits are used to clean metal and remove stains, most likely due to their high citric acid content. They are also used in traditional medicine to treat skin disorders and fevers, accordingly to Plant Resources of South East Asia (PROSEA). The genus name is after Averrhoes (1126-98), the widely known Arab philosopher.

A relative of the starfruit (also known as carambola), the bilimbi is botanically known as Averrhoa bilimbi. Both fruit trees are members of the Oxalidaceae family. The exact origin of the bilimbi is not certain, although it has been suspected to be from South East Asia. Averrhoa bilimbi grows as a small tree, reaching to heights of about 10 m. Its leaves are pinnate with the young ones taking on an attractive, bronzy colour. The tree has a short trunk with a few upright branches. This fruit tree produces clusters of attractive, fragrant, star-shaped red flowers on its trunks and branches, which is a habit termed as cauliflory. The fruits are cucumber-like albiet smaller – nearly cylindrical in shape (but one can still see the faint five ridges seen more prominently in its starfruit relative). The fruit is crisp when unripe, turns from bright-green to yellowish-green, ivory or nearly white when ripe, depending on the cultivar.

Averrhoa bilimbi is a tropical tree that grows well in areas with a distinct dry period. It has a high water requirement but prefers a well-draining location with slightly acidic soil to grow well soils. It does not tolerate winds, drought, flooding and salinity. The tree thrives in full sun and does not grow well in shady or semi-shady situations. Plants are usually raised from seeds although sometimes propagated via air-layering (marcotting). Mature plants are self-fertile, flower and fruit continuously, but usually there are one or two pronounced harvest seasons. Flowers are documented to open in the morning and fruit set is quite heavy.

The fruits are usually picked by hand, singly or in clusters. Note that they need gentle handling because of the easily bruised, thin skin. They do not have a long shelf-life – pick as required for the kitchen as they cannot be kept for more than 4 to 5 days under ambient conditions. To reduce acidity, fruits may be first pricked and soaked in water overnight, or soaked in salted water for a shorter time. The treated fruits are then boiled with sugar to make a delicious jam. Half-ripe fruits are sometimes salted, set out in the sun and then pickled in brine.

No pests or diseases have been reported specifically for the bilimbi as long as a tree is grown in a well-draining location. Grow this tree in your garden in if have the space to appreciate its attractive flowers and provide food for the flying jewels in our gardens – the butterflies, as well as, birds and bees. Read the blog post below for more information:

http://butterflycircle.blogspot.com/2010/02/tigers-and-belimbing.html

Root Awakening (10 Apr 2010)

10 Apr

In this week’s Root Awakening column, answers to three gardening questions were given.

The first question was about the lack of growth observed in begonia plants. Note that begonias demand a cool, bright, moist but well-ventilated area to grow well. Begonias that are grown in a high-rise apartment can have their growth affected adversely if they are grown in an area with direct sunshine or too windy. Locate them in a semi-shaded area that is protected from winds as winds can dry the plant out.

The second question enquired about the lanky growth of the devil’s backbone (Pedilanthus tithymaloides). Note that this plant likes to be grown in a sunny location. When grown in the shade, plants tend to become straggly and lanky. You can trim back the plant and locate it to a sunnier location to regenerate. Use the tip-cuttings as propagation material. The white milky sap is poisonous, so avoid contact with the skin.

The last question dealt with the method of propagation for the Crown of Thorns plant. This popular houseplant is easily propagated from tip cuttings. Take stem tips of about 10 cm in length and it is essential to allow the milky sap flow to stop before you proceed further. You can dip the end the cut end in water until the flow of sap stops. After that, allow the cuttings to dry in air for another three to four days. Then coat the cut end with a rooting hormone and stick it into some well-drained soil mix. The mix should be kept just slightly moist and not sodden. Stem-cuttings should root within a month.

Sesbania grandiflora – Beautiful & Edible!

7 Apr

Sesbania grandiflora, known commonly as the Agati Sesbania or West Indian Pea is a tree that is a member of the bean family, Fabaceae. Its young leaves are sold in bundles as a leafy vegetable in supermarkets and markets in the Little India vicinty as it is a vegetable that is popular amongst the Indian community here. The flower buds and tender fruit pods are eaten in salads, curries and soups. The leaves, flowers and roots of Sesbania grandiflora are medicinal. Wood from this tree is used to make floating fish nets, paper and fuel.

Not a commonly grown streetscape tree here, Sesbania grandiflora can be used as an ornamental shade tree. It produces large beautiful flowers in pendulous clusters. I have seen two varieties, namely, one with white flowers and another, with red flowers. The flower buds of the white flowered variety were sold in Thailand as a vegetable. These two varieties can roughly be told apart via their young, non-woody stems – the red flowered variety has reddish stems while the white flowered one has greenish stems.

 

According to the Plant Resources of South East Asia (PROSEA), this tree is also grown as a living fence and to provide support as a trellis for crops like pepper and vanilla, and for the reforestation of eroded areas. Although plants may be pruned back for harvesting of leaves for food or to make a fence, it is interesting to note that Sesbania grandiflora does not tolerate frequent, complete defoliation as this will cause them to die away. Initially, the side branches of a tree may be cut, leaving the main growing point untouched. After the tree has reached a height of 3 m or more, the leader can be cut back to heights above 1.5 m. Indeed, there is a proper way to prune this plant.

The exact origin of Sesbania grandiflora is not known, although India or Indonesia have been suggested. It is now widely grown throughout the tropics.

Sesbania grandiflora is usually started from seed and young plants exhibit rapid growth. They can reach a height of 2 m in just 12 weeks, 4 to 5 m in one year and about 8 m in 3 years, if grown in the ground under suitable conditions. It starts to flower when the plant is about 1.5 m tall. Like many other legumes, this plant has the ability to improves soil fertility by fixing nitrogen in the soil. It has been documented that its ability to fix nitrogen may be suppressed by soilborne nematodes or high soil acidity. At my workplace, I have noticed that em>Sesbania grandiflora is a host plant of the common grass yellow butterfly (Eurema hecabe contubernalis). The caterpillars of this species of butterfly also feed on a range of plants from the bean family.

Sesbania grandiflora is a hard-core tropical tree as it thrives in the lowland tropics, up to 800 m above sea-level. It is frost-sensitive and cannot tolerate cool temperatures over an extended period. A very versatile tree, it can be grown in a wide range of soils including those that are poor or waterlogged as it can tolerate flooding over long periods. It tolerates saline and alkaline soils and has also some tolerance to acidic soils down to pH 4.5.

Root Awakening (3 Apr 2010)

3 Apr

Below are answers to three questions for the Root Awakening column published on 3 April 2010.

The first question asked why the leaves of mint and basil started to curl with the presence of ants around the plants. Note that the curling of these herbs’ leaves is a sign of aphid or mealy bug infestation. When leaves are distorted, they cannot regain to their normal look and form again. What is recommended is to trim the affected parts away to the nearest node on the plant. The plant will regenerate with new growth with application of fertiliser. Control the population of ants and look out for any remaining infestations. Spray plants thoroughly with dilute soap solution, white summer oil or neem oil. Mint demand a sunny location with soil that is kept moist at all times to flourish. The hot and dry season with winds can cause plants to dry out quickly. Check that plants are not pot-bound as this will restrict their uptake of water and nutrients. Water plants well to keep them hydrated during this time.

The second question was about the growing of the recently introduced ‘lucky’ plant called the ‘Little Bird Plant’ which is a drought-tolerant plant from Central America and one should avoid overwatering it. Soil should be well-draining and kept barely moist at all times. It likes a sunny spot to grow well and situate it in a location with direct sunshine for at least half a day. For more information, look up via its botanical names – Pedilanthus coalcomanensis or Euphorbia coalcomanensis.

The last question was about the growing of a durian seedling. The reader described that the seedling started to turn brown after transplanting. What the reader did probably disturbed/damaged the roots of the durian seedling when you are trying to transplant it into a larger pot. The seedling can experience transplant shock if the operation was not done properly. Seedling should be well hydrated before transplant and if possible, the entire root ball should not be disturbed and transplanted whole into its new pot. After which, the plant should be located in a cool, bright and windless place soon after transplant for the plant to recover for at least 2 weeks. Also, soon after transplant, avoid adding fertiliser right away and this can be done about one month after transplant. When applying fertiliser, avoid placing the pellets too close to the plant’s roots and stems as they can burn the tender plant tissues.