Monthly Archives: February 2010

What is Burnt Earth?

In Singapore, soil in the ground is too clayey for use in container gardening. Instead of adding a range of soil amendments to improve its structure, local gardeners often choose to use a granular and porous material called ‘burnt earth’ for growing plants in pots.

Large chucks of burnt earth are preferred as they do not compact together and help to provide drainage.

Burnt earth is essentially heavy and sticky clay that has been heat-treated to change its structural properties. According to R.E. Holttum’s book, Gardening in the Lowlands of Malaya (first published in 1953), burnt earth is made from clay soil where large chucks of it are first stacked on top of wood refuse which served as a fuel source for burning. The pile is then set alight to kick start a slow burning process that goes on from two days to a week under shelter.

Today, this process of producing burnt earth is considered by some individuals as an environmentally-unfriendly practice. Burning produces carbon dioxide which contributes to global warming and the digging up of soil material, a non-renewable resource, from the ground can affect the natural environment adversely.

For the organic portion, I choose to add mature compost to the burnt earth portion to confer moisture-retentive properties to the mix.

After burning, what results is a sterilised material that does not become sticky when wet. Due to its porous nature, burnt earth is able to absorb water and because of its granular structure, it also drains well and provides aeration to plant roots growing in it. Burnt earth is believed to contain very little nutrients and plants grown in it would require regular feeding using a liquid fertiliser or slow-release pellets.

Lumps of burnt earth are preferred for use in the garden. Burnt earth in the form of a fine powder is usually discarded as it tends to settle and form a cake at the base of the pot. This is why most gardeners would choose to sieve a newly purchased packet of burnt earth to separate lumps from the fine powder.

A growing mix made up of 1 part of burnt earth and 1 part of mature compost – ideal for growing most plants. Burnt earth portion can be increased for growing plants that need better drainage.

Burnt earth is seldom used on its own. For potting plants, it is often combined with mature compost which forms the organic, water-retentive component of the growing mix. For plants that need to be grown in a well-drained and more open mix, concoct a mixture that comprises coarser pieces of burnt earth and a smaller proportion of compost. Note that a plant grown in a more open mix would need to be watered more frequently when situated in a sunny and/or windy location.

Fine burnt earth powder shown on the right is usually removed by sieving store-bought burnt earth. Fine powder tends to settle at the base of the pot and cause drainage issues.

It is not unusual to see local nurseries nurturing small seedlings in an oversized pot containing a burnt earth-based soil mix, such as Celosia being raised for Chinese New Year during the rainy monsoon season near the end of the year. When used in the right proportion, burnt earth helps to maintain an open and aerated structure of the potting mix which drains well and dries out sufficiently without the dangers of prolonged wet feet. This also saves the gardener the trouble of having to transplant seedlings into larger containers when they outgrow the existing ones.

Lastly, although a burnt earth-based soil mix can be heavy, it presents an obvious advantage – a flowerpot that uses such a mix is less likely to topple when placed in a windy location due to its added stability.

Basil Troubles

Basil is probably the most common Western culinary herbs grown by most gardeners at home. Several cultivars of basil are grown by Singaporeans at home. Sweet basil appears to be quite common for those who cook Western food and are also fans of pesto. Those of us who are into Thai and Vietnamese cuisines would grow the Thai basil. Our Hindu friends would grow a pot of the green or purple sacred basil.

One of the most common pest problems faced by gardeners when growing basil is the infestation of the young and emerging new leaves at the growing point by sucking insects such as aphids or mealy bugs. The symptom of a prevailing infestation is quite obvious – the affected new leaves become crumpled and distorted. In some of the more severe cases that I have across, leaves can fuse into a tight mass.

Aphids and mealy bugs that cause this disfiguring symptom can only be found on the underside of the affected leaves. These small sucking insects hide amongst the folds formed in the distorted leaves and this makes the spraying of infested plants with contact pesticides rather ineffective in the eradication of these pests as it is difficult to ensure that the delivery of the chemical to all surfaces of the plant. Note that affected leaves do not recover even when the pests have been eradicated.

What I often resort to is to prune away all affected parts of the plant – cut away affected growth points down to the next healthy and uninfested node. It is essential to note that the node is still green and capable of producing new growth. Older basil plants tend to become woody near the bottom portion of the plant. Cutting such plants down to the woodier portion can prove to be rather risky as new growth may not regenerate as a result.

By pruning away infested parts of a basil plant, we are in fact reducing the number of pests that need to be eradicated. After cutting away affected portions of a plant, you may want to apply a contact pesticide to kill any remaining sucking pests and over the next few days, monitor the population of these pests. There may be a need to spray plants again after a few days to ensure the progeny of these pests have all been wiped out. Because basil is grown for food uses, I often opt to use either neem oil or white summer oil, which are more environmentally-friendly and non-toxic compared to conventional synthetic pesticides.

New Zealand Spinach in Singapore

When I was young, I always wanted to grow spinach (Spinacea oleracea) in Singapore. Due to the fact that it is a cool-growing crop, it would not thrive. After looking up various vegetable gardening books, I was introduced to various warmer-growing spinach alternatives, one of which was the New Zealand spinach, which is also known as the warrigal cabbage/greens in Australia. Botanically known as Tetragonia tetragonioides, the New Zealand spinach is a day-neutral and salt-tolerant member of the Aizoaceae family. The edible parts of the plant are rich in vitamin A, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin C content but low in fiber. In Singapore, New Zealand spinach is not commercially for sale.

From various resources, it is documented that the New Zealand spinach is a xerophyte which is capable of tolerating long periods of drought. In the lowland tropics like Singapore, New Zealand spinach is said to be more suited for growing in the cooler highlands. I managed to grow some here, but I notice it only thrives if given filtered sunlight as it tends to suffer from severe heat- and moisture-stress if grown under full sun. When that happens, the leaves turned yellow and remained small. Growth of the plant virtually halts to a stop. I grew my plants in a well-draining but fertile soil that is kept moist at all times. I also applied regular doses of liquid fertiliser to encourage rapid and tender growth.

Under such a cultivation regime, the triangular leaves of the New Zealand spinach I grew seems to be still quite small compared to the reported size – 10 cm in length and almost 8 cm wide. Plants adopt a trailing and vining habit. They also produce small, yellow flowers as reported. Growth seems to be a bit sluggish, probably due to the lowland heat. I also noticed that it can die away during the extreme hot months in Singapore from April to July.

According to Plant Resources of Tropical Africa (PROTA), it is reported that harvesting can commence once plants have grown to a height and length of over 30 cm. Tops up to 20 cm may be cut for the first harvest. Avoid picking older growth with fruits as they would have become bitter and fibrous. Regular harvests help to promote branching but with time and numerous harvests, plants can become ‘tired’ and the crop is then removed when the yield and quality have become inferior.

At present, I have not attempted to harvest the young shoots for consumption. New Zealand spinach should not be eaten raw as it contains calcium oxalate crystals, although many people still use it raw in salads. The edible portion needs to be cooked to destroy them by blanching them for at least 3 minutes where the cooking water is disposed of and the greens refreshed in iced water before eating.

The ‘No Head’ Cabbage

There is this particular Brassica that is commonly planted in vegetable and medicinal herb section of quite a few community gardens that I have visited.  Many of the plants I have seen are quite scrawny and small which appear like the Chinese kale (Brassica alboglabra). From a past observation in my community garden, this particular Brassica does have the potential to grow become quite big where each leaf can grow into a size that is much larger than a man’s palm! I reckon the enormous size that these brassicas grew into was due the generous amounts of fertiliser that were applied.

This particular Brassica is often called the “headless cabbage” by local Chinese (无头菜) and are believed to possess medicinal properties. Many gardeners who grow it adopted the ‘pick and come again’ approach where they harvest the lower leaves for food which are prepared by stir-frying them like typical Chinese brassicas. With time, a clear stem below appears which makes the plant look like a ‘sproutless’ Brussels sprouts plant. When young, the plant tends to look like a cabbage plant that has yet to form a head. Notably, the leaves of this Brassica have a bluish-grey tinge and come with much powdery wax on it.

Till today, no one really knows the exact identity of this Brassica. It is probably one of the diverse cultigens developed from wild Brassica oleracea. From the descriptions I read about common edible brassicas, the one for the kale (Brassica oleracea var. acephala) seems most apt due to the bluish leaves usually found on the latter.

This plant likes to be grown under full sun and in very well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. It grows vigorously if given fertiliser regularly. When harvesting, refraining from pulling the leaves off the plant. Any injury to the stem can allow entry of pathogens into plant tissues, which can lead to stem rot and demise of the plant. Use a clean and sharp pair of harvest to help cut the leaves cleanly from the plant. Tall plants would require staking to provide support and prevent plants from toppling over and snapping their stems.

Like other brassicas, this cabbage relative is prone to attack by the cabbage white butterfly caterpillars so it is best to grow it in a netted shelter for protection. I have seen this plant flower and like many other brassicas that do not flower under certain cultivation conditions, it is vegetatively propagated via stem-cuttings which can be taken from the many small shoots that emerge from the base of the plant or lower internodes of the bare stem.

Root Awakening (20 Feb 2010)

In this weekend’s Root Awakening column, answers to three gardening questions were given. The first question dealt with the spraying of pesticides by our neighbours. Note that pesticides vary in terms of their toxicity and all should be treated as harmful. One should advise his neighbor to inform him whenever a pesticide application will be performed so that the necessary precautions can take place. It would also be useful to know the type of chemical that is being applied so that you can do some homework to know what protective measures to take. Some pesticides are very toxic to fish and aquatic life so make sure pesticide fumes do not reach them.

The next question was about a local medicinal herb, which is botanically known as Gynura procumbens. It is a plant that is a member of the daisy family, Asteraceae, which is eaten as a leafy vegetable in some parts of the world. To date, its cancer-curing properties have not been systemically assessed and proven. This plant is also believed to be able to reduce high blood pressure and lower serum glucose levels, amongst others. Further studies need to be performed to confirm such effects. It is best to consult a certified practitioner before consuming such herbs.

The last question queried about the identity of a houseplant with purple foliage. Botanically known as Oxalis regnellii ‘Atropurpurea’, this particular houseplant is known via a range of common names that include Purple Oxalis, Wood Sorrel and False Shamrock. It is native in Argentina, Bolivia, and Paraguay and can be propagated via division of the crown. Grow it in a protected, semi-shaded location away from winds. It prefers to grow in a well-drained soil mix such as one concocted for container gardening. Keep soil moist at all times and not soggy. Fertilize weekly with a balanced fertilizer.

A beautiful but tough to grow – Crossostephium chinense

The Chinese Wormwood, botanically known as Crossostephium chinense, is a beautiful shrub to grow and is a member of the daisy family, Asteraceae. The Chinese in Singapore refer to it as ‘芙蓉菊’ which translates into ‘hibiscus daisy’, strangely. It occurs naturally in southern China, the Ryuku Islands, Taiwan and the Philippines where it grows near coastal areas on limestone and coral formations. It was once classified under the genus Artemisia.

Crossostephium chinense is admired for its aromatic, silver-coloured, furry foliage and therefore an ideal candidate for planting up a silver-theme garden. It grows as a much-branched shrub that can attain a height of 30 cm tall, adopting a bushier appearance near the ends of each growing point and older leaves are usually shed away. Older plants flower freely and produce daisy-like flowers with yellow ray florets. Fruits are seldom formed in the tropics.

Besides being an ornamental plant, Crossostephium chinense possesses some medicinal properties. In the Philippines and Thailand, an infusion of its aerial parts is documented to be used to calm the digestive system and promote the production of milk in lactating mothers. In China, it is used to treat congestions, cough and menstrual irregularities.

This plant makes a good border plant for any garden where its silvery leaves contrast against a largely green background. It is not an easily plant to grow in the wet, lowland tropics as it is very sensitive to waterlogging and prolonged wet feet. Crossostephium chinense is best planted in a pot containing well-draining, alkaline soil. Soil can be allowed to dry out a little between each watering. It should be protected under shelter during the wet monsoon season to avoid rotting of the plant. Crossostephium chinense is seldom affected by pests. It has a moderate growth rate and is best grown in a sunny spot. Because seeds are not readily available, Crossostephium chinense can only be propagated via softwood to semi-hardwood stem-cuttings.

The Magenta Plant

Peristrophe roxburghiana is one plant that most older generation Singaporeans would be familiar with. It is a flowering plant that belongs to the Acanthaceae family and is native to southeastern Asia, southern China, and South East Asia. It thrives in the humid lowlands and grows as a lush, herbaceous perennial shrub, up to a height of 0.6 m tall, with lanceoate- to ovoid-acute-shaped leaves.

Unlike many of its more showy ornamental relatives, the true flowers of Peristrophe roxburghiana are not magnificient and they emerge from a small, terminal flower spike. Each flower consists of only two petals which are coloured pink which may appear magenta to reddish-violet to others. There are reports that state there are plants with white flowers.

Despite of the lack of beauty in its blooms, Peristrophe roxburghiana is a plant that is valued as a source of natural food dye. An extract of its leaves imparts a magenta colouring which is used to colour various food desserts in Vietnamese cuisine. The Chinese here knows it via the name ‘红丝线’ (hong si xian) which translates into ‘red silk threads’, with reference to the magenta/reddish dye that is found in its leaves which can be extracted by boiling leaves in water. The leaves of Peristrophe roxburghiana have a sweet taste with cooling properties and are also used medicinally to treat cough, dysentery, diarrhoea and bronchitis. Pregnant women should refrain from consuming this plant.

Peristrophe roxburghiana has a place in any tropical medicinal herb garden. Grow it in a sunny to semi-shaded and well-drained spot with moist, fertile soil. Prune this plant to shape periodically to keep growth in check and ensure a neat and tidy appearance. It propagates easily from stem-cuttings and sections of internodal stem-cuttings and tip-cuttings root easily without any rooting hormone powder. It is relatively pest- and disease-free.

Root Awakening (13 Feb 2010)

Three gardening questions were provided with answers for this week’s Root Awakening column. The first question dealt with the choice of fruit trees that are suitable for growing in a rooftop garden in Singapore. For this, I suggested some small fruit trees that are more rewarding to grow in pots which include the chiku, kedongdong, guava, jambu and starfruit. Grafted versions of the mango can also be considered. Another fruit plant to grow is the dwarf Cavendish banana. It is important that fruit trees should be located in a location where they are able to receive at least 6 hours of direct sunshine and soil that is kept moist at all times. Note the weight bearing capacity of one’s roof-top before populating the area with large pots of fruit trees.

The second question was about the choice of plants for a east- or west-facing growing location and the range would largely depend on the duration and intensity of sunshine that are available. If the area receives direct sunshine for at least 4 hours daily, one can grow a large range of plants which include flowering shrubs and vines and selected vegetables and herbs. Fruit trees can be difficult as they require longer duration of direct sunshine.

Note that many foliage plants need some form protection under such high light conditions to prevent foliage burn. They can be grown on the lower tier of your growing rack or between taller plants which can offer some shade from direct sunshine. I referred readers to grab the book entitled ‘1001 Garden Plants of Singapore’ published by the National Parks Board for the range of plants that one can grow in a balcony. The light requirement of each plant is indicated by an icon in the book.

The last question was about the lack of fruit set in tomato plants. This is a commonly encountered problem in Singapore. It is important to note that not all tomatoes will be rewarding to grow in Singapore’s climate. Only the smaller fruited cherry tomatoes seem to set fruits well here. Larger fruited ones usually experience poor fruit set as flowers tend to drop off without turning into fruits. To help pollination, it may be beneficial for one to perform hand pollination by using a fine paintbrush to brush each opened flower to help transfer pollen which will increase the chance of fruit set.

Note that the first few flushes of flowers tend to be aborted but fruit set should start soon after that.

Pretty but poisonous Solanum pseudocapsicum!

Solanum pseudocapsicum (most commonly known as Jerusalem Cherry) has been a Lunar New Year festive plant  in Singapore. It is a good example of a non-traditional plant that has been turned into a festive plant for the Spring Festival. This plant could have acquired an auspicious meaning via its attractive fruits that come in a range of colours shown over the period of fruit maturation and ripening where they first appear green like jade, then gold and finally, red like a ruby. All parts of this plant is poisonous. Of particular note are its fruits which look like cherry tomatoes (they contain solanocapsine and other alkaloids), so keep fruiting plants and fallen fruit out of reach by young children and pets.

Solanum pseudocapsicum is documented to be a widespread and extremely variable species and this plant can grow as a small erect shrub. In Singapore, we get plants in the nursery that are in the range of 30 to 50 cm tall when they are sold as container plants for display. If left to grow, it is documented that a plant can grow up to 1 m tall, if grown in the ground. Some cultivars can also adopt a prostrating growth habit. Cultivated plants have rather smooth leaves  and produce have large flowers and fruit.

Some years back, only the variety with all green leaves is available for sale in Singapore and this year, we get to see a new cultivar with variegated leaves. Solanum pseudocapsicum is native to the drier areas of Central and South America, from Mexico to southern Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay, from sea level to 2600 m. Widely cultivated throughout the world, often escaped in tropical and subtropical areas.

With these growing conditions in mind, if one is  to grow Solanum pseudocapsicum in Singapore, we have to ensure plants are grown in moisture-retentive and well-draining soil. Water well and let the soil become moderately dry between waterings. If you noticed leaves falling, it may be a sign that the plant is given too much water and the plant is experiencing wet feet. Fruit drop could be due to insufficient light. It is a sun-lover and hence it is best positioned in a sunny location.

To encourage bushiness, prune the plant regularly or by pinching the growing points. Do also remember to feed your Solanum pseudocapsicum with liquid fertilizer during the active growing stage. Like chillis and tomatoes, you can help to promote fruit set by tapping its flowers to distribute pollen but also make sure the plant is receiving sufficient sunshine and not grown in too windy a place which can be too dry. Similarly, note that Solanum pseudocapsicum is prone to attacks by whiteflies, mealy bugs, aphids and spider mites attack and frequent checks are required to ensure good health of your plant.

Colour your kids’ world with Fittonias (Singapore Child Magazine, Feb 2010)

My colleagues, Joyce and Pearl, from the Hort Outreach section of Hort Excellence division of the National Parks Board contributed an article to the February 2010 edition of the Singapore’s Child magazine. The article shares some tips on how one can use colourful fittonia plants to get them acquainted with plants and start them off with gardening hobby at a young age…